There’s a magic about Cambodia that casts a spell on many who visit this charming yet confounding kingdom. Ascend to the realm of the gods at the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of symbolism, symmetry and spirituality. Descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and come face to face with the Khmer Rouge and its killing machine. Welcome to the conundrum that is Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, an intoxicating place where the future is waiting to be shaped.

The years of fear and loathing are finally over and Angkor is once more the symbol of the nation, drawing pilgrims from across the globe. Peace has come to this beautiful yet blighted land after three decades of war, and the Cambodian people have opened their arms to the world. Tourism has well and truly taken off, yet a journey here remains an adventure as much as a holiday.

Contemporary Cambodia is the successor state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, during the Angkor period, ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen at the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and grandeur in Southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.

Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than its temples. The chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of political intrigue, economic vitality and intellectual debate. All too often overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking off Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised city is finally earning plaudits in its own right thanks to a gorgeous riverside location, a cultural renaissance, and a dining and drinking scene to rival the best in the region.

Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the heavyweights, but to some extent they are a bubble, a world away from the Cambodia of the countryside. This is the place to experience the rhythm of rural life and timeless landscapes of dazzling rice paddies and swaying sugar palms. Spend some time in the srok (provinces), as Cambodians call them, enjoying a dar leng(walkabout) to discover the true flavour of the country.

There is no doubt for why this largest religious building in the world is the symbol for everything in Cambodia; from the national flag down to a brand of a bottle of beer; it is indeed significant. The sun-kissed intricate and pronounced carvings of the walls of one of the seven wonders of the world, the Angkor Wat, gleamed in perfect display when I climbed the first step of the entrance. I felt minuscule; nestling this 1-square kilometer phenomenon is a 190 meter wide man-made moat. The lotus bud-shaped towers of the temple conceals a hidden story of the dazzling history of Hinduism. Every single corner was a treasure of history. A story that the statues illustrate spoke louder than words itself. Horizontal, vertical, triangular, rectangular spaces indicated openings that led to another realm of absolute splendor. Aesthetic Apsara dancers were found among the spectacle, elegantly coloring the black backdrop of the temple with life. The Angkor Wat was like reality whirled by ancient fantasy and hallucination, and what was seen only reflected part of how marvelous it must have been in the past.

Ancient and modern history combine to create a fascinating adventure for the Cambodian traveler. Not to be missed is the stunning Angkor Archaeological Park, home to the 12th century Angkor Wat with its soaring towers, 100 other temples, and remains of the largest city in the pre-industrialized world. Contrast the temples and pagodas found throughout the century with the artifacts of contemporary history by seeing the remnants of the 1970s reign of Pol Pot’s brutal Khmer Rouge.

Cambodia’s communities big and small offer contrasts: You’ll see high rises among French colonial architecture in the busy metropolis of Phnom Penh, which is making a comeback from the dark days of the Khmer Rouge. Away from the bustling cities of the small country you will find villages where life is lived as it has been for centuries – by fishing, subsistence farming, raising silkworms and using the barter system.

Throughout this Southeast Asian country glorious nature abounds: white sand beaches, waterfalls, caves, rivers, rain forests and mountain preserves. All this and more await you for your next vacation to Cambodia.

The magnificent temple of Angkor Wat, located near Siem Reap, is among the stunning treasures to be seen in Angkor Archaeological Park, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. The temple, which features soaring towers and extraordinary bas-reliefs, was erected in the 12th century in honor of Vishnu. The park itself stretches over 400 square kilometers and contains some 100 temples and the remains of several capitals of the Khmer Empire dating from the 9th to 15th centuries, among them the largest city of the pre-industrial world. Also in the park is the fortified city of Angkor Thom. There, visitors can see the famous Bayon temple, where 54 towers display more than 200 massive carved faces. Other highlights include the unrestored Buddhist temple of Ta Prohm, which looks the same as did when 1986s French explorers same upon it.